Friday, March 24, 2017

My Jacket Express and Pattern Review

I know you want this class now if you missed it last week. The Craftsy class includes the physical pattern mailed to you which makes it a great value. Here is an affiliate link that gets you a 25% discount.
 Being able to sew along with the video classes was wonderful. I could put my brain on cruise control and just follow Janet. I love her teaching style. She is a very sweet and helpful person. I think the pattern is very clever. As you can see, I LOVE that it has 19 pattern pieces - all the better to mix fabrics, my dear.

I used the finished garment measurements to choose a size, and I made the size small. It was supposed to be 43.125" at the bust (and hip) but mine came out about 42" when closed. My snaps are set in .75" from the front edges. The button hole markings are probably a little closer than that which would account for the difference.
I loved learning how to use the pressing tools properly.  I recently purchased the point presser from Janet's website and I used the bottom of it as a clapper. I already had a point turner and a sleeve roll. Janet uses a seam stick instead of a sleeve roll. I am going to have to get that too, it works better than a sleeve roll for pressing seams.  Here is a link to Janet's pressing tools for sale.
Changes I made to the pattern:
1. I needed the breast pockets on the outside for my design - the original pattern has them on the inside and a very clever opening and top stitching. To accomplish my contrasting pockets, I used the pocket pieces as facing pieces but instead of stitching them to the outside and turning in, I stitched to the inside and turned out.  I kept the shape of the pocket opening by making the top edge of the pocket match what the facing would have been, and added muslin pockets behind the facing (fake) pockets.
2. I lengthened the sleeves by an inch and a half. It is a 3 part sleeve so that was a little tricky to get the shape just right after lengthening and I don't think I did a great job of it. I want to revisit the sleeve next time and redraft a sleeve using Suzie Furrer's class.
3. When installing the cuffs, I completely sandwiched the sleeve edges and mostly burrito'ed the sides and ends of cuff, leaving about 3" open to turn. I liked the way this came out better than the way she shows in the class. (I did one her way and one my way)
4. I made the collar pointed instead of curved.
5. I took 2" out of the length of the center back, tapering it out to meet the side seam. The jacket was hitting me right on the bum and it was keeping the jacket from hanging properly. (All that hiking and stair climbing is paying off!)  The hem still looks straight when I am wearing it. This change means you have to change the shape of the back facing piece to match.
6. I used snaps instead of buttons and button holes.  My spacing is different too. I used 5 snaps on the front instead of 4.
Additional changes I will make next time:
1. I will cut the front facing slightly longer than the pattern at the top end where the facing meets the shoulder seam. Having only 1/4" seam allowance is not enough for me, I ended up short on one side. I can always cut it off later if I don't need it.
2. I really do not like the notches at the shoulder and the final closure of the collar. I would like to try leaving the upper collar and under collar unconstructed until the end. Maybe the upper collar could attach to the facing and the under collar attach to the jacket, then they all come together along the outside edges. That might work better for me without the 1/4" deep notches. The other option would be to simply stop and start sewing again at the notches rather than making them long enough to flip out of the way.
3. Sleeve vent I will make and/or finish differently. Maybe take a look at doing a different sleeve. I need to make a whole sleeve at the correct length and then break it into 3 pieces. Adjusting the length of 3 sleeve pieces just did not work. Wearing it's great, but I know it could have been drafted better. The original is great but just not long enough for me.
I hope you'll take advantage of this class and pattern. I think you will love it like I do. Connect with me and show me your jackets. I would love to see them.  I posted some of my process photos on Instagram. I am @StudioCherie_sewing on Instagram. If you follow me there, you will see the TripsterShirts as I make them. I'll be making more of these jackets with the TripsterShirts label. One of my friends commented that it had a '70's vibe. Next photo shoot, I will stick my front leg way out for the "keep on truckin" pose.

1 comment:

Kate B. said...

I really like what you've done with this pattern. Thanks for sharing the nitty gritty details on how you put it together and changes you made. I have this class and have watched some of it but haven't yet made the jacket. I will have to make some changes too, so that it's less boxy as I am already short and boxy to start with. Not something I want to accentuate!